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Tech Tips: Log Splitters & Chainsaws

Wood Processing

Learn how to choose and maintain the right log splitter or chainsaw. Explore accessories, safety tips, and wood processing solutions for every need.

Gas Or Electric Log Splitters

Electric log splitters are lighter, portable, produce no exhaust fumes, are quieter and less expensive than gas splitters, and require minimal maintenance. They can be operated indoors and out, but their log splitting capacity is limited. You will need to be close to an electrical outlet, or use a generator.

Gas log splitters are heavy-duty, and designed for use in remote locations. You can’t use these indoors due to exhaust fumes, and they need fuel and oil to operate. Regular maintenance is required, but the payoff is they deliver a higher splitting capacity.

How much wood are you planning to split?

That depends on how you will use it.

  • Enough to heat a house, workshop, etc.?

  • Just for a fire pit, outdoor cooking or other recreational use?

If you have more than half a cord of wood to do, then a gas-powered splitter is the ideal way to go.

What type of wood?

Hardwoods tend to have a higher density than softwoods. Common softwoods include spruce, pine, hemlock, Douglas fir, larch and western red cedar. Common hardwoods include birch, maple and oak.

Some species are very hard to split and are best suited to the power of a gas splitter (oak and maple, for example), and fresh-cut wood can be harder to split than dried, seasoned wood.

Log diameter and length

The thicker the log, the more wood there is to force apart on either side of the grain. Logs that are larger in diameter need more pressure to split. A 24-inch tree trunk will need the force of a 20-ton splitter.

Log Splitter Safety

  • Wear protective equipment during use - gloves, safety glasses, hearing protectors, long pants and closed-toe footwear.

  • Never adjust the log while splitter is in operation. Keep hands away from pinch points.

  • Lift heavy logs with your legs, and keep your back straight.

  • Don’t operate a gas splitter indoors.

  • Don’t split logs across the grain.

  • Don’t use the log splitter for anything but wood.

  • Regularly inspect your log splitter for any potential problems.

Log Splitter Terminology

Cycle Time

The time it takes a splitter to split a log and reset to its retracted starting position is its cycle time. The shorter the cycle time, the faster the splitting process.

Horizontal/Vertical Operation

Horizontal-only log splitters are ideal for heavy-duty splitting requiring serious horsepower and a great amount of splitting force. Vertical log splitters require less lifting of logs onto the log cradle. Splitters with both horizontal and vertical capabilities offer the greatest versatility.

Splitter Options & Accessories

  • 3-Point Hitch type splitter - requires a Category 1 or 2 tractor with a 3-point hitch and hydraulic system. Cycle time will depend on the tractor’s hydraulic flow rate capability.

  • Manual Log Splitter - eliminates power driven components and reduces overall cost, but physical effort is increased.

  • 4-Way Log Splitter Knife - splits a log into four pieces instead of two. Not for use on electric splitters.

  • Kindling Splitter - splits dry wood into smaller pieces for camping, cottage and fire pit use.

  • Log Cradle (for 25 ton gas models) - helps keep split logs from falling, and allows the next log to be rolled onto the splitting bed.

  • Log Splitter Stand (for 5 ton electric) - eliminates the need to set up on a bench or makeshift supports.

  • Log Splitter Covers - UV and mildew resistant cover protects your splitter from the elements.

Hydraulic Oils & Filters

  • All Season 46 Hydraulic Oil - for all gas-powered log splitters.

  • All Season 22 (Winter), All Season 32 (Spring/Summer/Fall) Hydraulic Oil - for electric log splitters.

  • Hydraulic Filters – for gas-powered splitters, change approximately every 200 hours of use (refer to owner’s manual for specific instructions

Chainsaws

Gas or Electric?

Electric chainsaws are ideal for basic yardwork use. They are typically lightweight, compact and easy to carry. No engine means no oil and gas to mix, no fumes and less noise. These require minimal maintenance and are easy to start. On the downside, electric chainsaws are not ideal for cutting larger trees and branches, due to their lower power capacities. A corded saw requires an extension cord, which will affect mobility and performance (the longer the cord, the less electricity powering the chainsaw). A cordless (battery-powered) chainsaw will only operate for a limited amount of time, and may not match the power of a corded model.

Gas chainsaws are ideal for home and professional use. They have the power to cut down larger trees and branches, with greater power and cutting speed. They can run for long periods (as long as you have fuel on hand), and come in a wide range of bar lengths. On the downside, gas chainsaws are much louder, produce fumes, and requires the mixing of gas and oil. They are heavier and not as easy to handle, and are more expensive.

How do I know what size bar I have?

Your bar’s cutting length (or “called length”) is different from its total (overall) length. The cutting length is the distance from the front of the saw to the tip of the farthest cutter, rounded to the nearest inch.

This length is the number used in the selector guide to describe the bars that are available for your saw. Be careful: a bar made by OREGON® may take a different drive link count than that of another manufacturer. Here’s a tip: if you have an OREGON® bar, look at the ten-digit number stamped on the motor end. The first two digits (such as 16) tell you the cutting (called) length.

Chainsaw Safety

  • Wear appropriate safety gear: gloves, safety glasses, hearing protectors, chaps and boots (steel toes are recommended).

  • Don't be caught by surprise when you feel the saw's pull. Cutting on the bottom of the bar pulls you toward the log, cutting on the top of the bar pushes you away.

  • Don’t stand on ladders, scaffolds, trees or any unstable surface when using the chainsaw. Don’t overreach or cut above shoulder level.

  • Don’t operate the chainsaw with one hand. Grip both hands on the handles to reduce the force of a kickback.

  • Don’t keep the chain rotating when moving to a new spot.

  • Bend your knees when working in low positions. Avoid bending your back.

  • Position yourself properly. For right-handed people, put your left foot slightly in front of the right foot. Keep your feet approximately shoulder-width apart. Always maintain good balance and footing.

  • Be aware of your surroundings. Keep everyone 10 feet (3 meters) away while using the chainsaw.

  • Let the saw to do the work and don’t apply heavy pressure. Run the throttle at full speed while maintaining steady pressure on the cutting arm.

  • Avoid chainsaw kickback: keep the tip of the cutting bar from touching the ground or any object. Kickback is a lightning-fast reverse reaction that kicks the saw bar up and back towards you, which could result in serious injuries.

  • Inspect your chainsaw on a regular basis for any potential problems.

Logging Accessories

  • Steel Log Jack - used to handle, move and lift logs for cutting.

  • Logging Skid Plate - helps move logs out of the bush. Hooks up to an ATV or truck.

  • Industrial Peavey - allows for more leverage when handling and maneuvering large logs.

  • Log Choker with Tow Rings - allows for easier hauling of logs by ATV or lawn tractor (max. pulling force of 1,500 lb).

  • Straight Logging Shaves - use to debark logs.